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 1 
 on: Yesterday at 10:08:49 PM 
Started by ridingillini - Last post by snoboarder77
All my parts came late last week. Dropped the hubs and hoops off at Richards Friday. Now if only Felt would start shipping their bikes...



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 2 
 on: Yesterday at 10:40:28 AM 
Started by ridingillini - Last post by ultraloveninja
I'm currently saving up for a Surly Krampus rig. I want something that I can ride year rounds and after some researching, the Kramups seems like the right bike to build. Plus, I want to start to do more bikepacking trips as well.

 3 
 on: December 19, 2014, 04:46:24 PM 
Started by undercover - Last post by undercover
It is very special when other bike clubs recognize our work. We are all proud of our trails. Thank you guys!

In recognition of their outstanding work building and maintaining sustainable trails,
NBC Treasurer Rick Cosaro and NBC Mountain Bike Coordinator George Pastorino
proudly present this donation to Cambr Executive Director Jerry Stoeckigt on
behalf of The Naperville Bike Club




 4 
 on: December 19, 2014, 03:22:05 PM 
Started by zeppman - Last post by I pick bad lines
Jeff at Main Street Bikes in Carpentersville comes well recommended by some friends of mine.

 5 
 on: December 19, 2014, 11:39:50 AM 
Started by zeppman - Last post by zeppman
hey everyone,

I'm replacing my XT drivetrain with Sram xo1.  An issuing I'm running into is removing the Press Fit BB and replacing it.  (Assuming I can't use sram cranks with a shimano bb?)  Anyway... does anyone have any shops they would recommend in the northern burbs?  I know how to do it, but I don't want to spend more money on tools that I may only use once every couple of years. 

Thanks.

 6 
 on: December 18, 2014, 07:03:36 PM 
Started by ridingillini - Last post by Ohfugit
Same thing for me on the Novatec 4-1 hub on my FatBike
I pulled the Freehub and when you depressed the pawls you could see how slowly they would spring back. I cleaned out the old grease and replaced it with Slick-Honey and they work very nicely.

 7 
 on: December 18, 2014, 12:38:32 PM 
Started by ridingillini - Last post by krapper
SFB thanks for the heads up on the Salsa hub. I have some slick honey. Sounds like a weekend project.

Your Quiring looks like a lot of fun, and the D5's look great too. I am surprised that they aren't wider on 80 mm. I guess good for you, given the tight fit.

 8 
 on: December 18, 2014, 11:39:49 AM 
Started by undercover - Last post by undercover
Palos trail workday, Sunday the 21st. Meet at Saganaski Central at 9am. We might be working on trails depending on turnout and weather. we will for sure will be moving and staging materials for the new trails.

 9 
 on: December 18, 2014, 07:06:50 AM 
Started by ridingillini - Last post by sommerfliesby
Just put the 4.8 Dillingers on my Quiring...80mm rims mean they are a bit over 4" wide rather than the advertised 5"...but that was a GOOD thing as my bike is only made to be a 4" bike.

To say it was close in the rear would be an understatement, the knobs actually TOUCH on the non-driveside seatstay!  I will probably lose the paint on the frame right there (but its a mtb...its supposed to look like that), but the wheel spins free and it doesn't even make a buzzing noise when I ride...so it BARELY touches, and I'm good with it.

I then threw the Husker Dus I just bought back on it until we get some snow...

 10 
 on: December 18, 2014, 07:00:06 AM 
Started by ridingillini - Last post by sommerfliesby
Last year I rode a half fat - 3.8" Nate up front on a 47 mm Schlick North Paw rim, 2.3" slant 6 running tubeless on a Stan's flow  rim (*not* a flow Ex).  Also I was SS. I ended up gearing 22/22 1:1 on a 26" rim. With that I could get around Palos as well as anybody on an Farley. When the conditions were good, it was good for everybody - even skinny tired mountain bikes like 2.3"ers. When it was deep soft snow that I couldn't or could barley get through, I was usually the only one on the trail (and walking alot - can you say 1.5 hours round trip from Maple Lake to the yellow double track near the top of Gravity).

This year I pulled the plug and just got my fat bike put together. My requirements were Bluto, a frame that could switch to single speed, a slack headset, a short chain stay, 5" capable, symmetric rear wheel, and tubeless.

Bluto - Why - why not. I love my suss, why not fat suss. You need a frame with that can run a tapered head tube. Older Muks, Pugs, Moonlanders, etc. cannot run a Bluto

SS - technically any frame can be made SS with an old derailleur or a singulator or such. For me I wanted something with sliders, Salsa style Alternators, Paragon, or EBB.

Slack Headset - 70 is the norm. Anything less I consider to be slack. Fatboy is 70.5, Farley I think is 70, On-one Fatty is 68. Increasing A-C by using will slacken the head tube angle, but also raises the BB slightly.

Short Chain Stay - this is relative but the shortest I have seen is 410 mm on the Mater Benefat. Anything under 445 is on the short side.

5" capable. This is a loaded requirement. It doesn't necessarily mean 190 in the rear. The 190 helps with chain clearance, but is not necessarily needed for frame clearance. 100 mm rims widen tires, so they demand increased frame and chain clearance.

Symmetric Rear - this is either 170 or 190 qr, or 177 or 197 TA hubs. The hubs are wider to move the cassette further outboard such that when in the little ring in front and the big ring in the rear the chain doesn't get hung up on the tire.  Offset wheels do the same thing but with a 135 qr or 142 TA hub. (not sure anybody ever made a 142 offset frame). There's more frame options with 170 and 190 out there now then there is 135 offset.

Tubeless - Just about anything can be set up tubeless with enough tape and enough stans are latex mold goo. However all these things add weight. There are some good Rim options out there for tubeless now including the Chinese ones in an earlier post.

The other thing is I didn't want to break the bank and try to keep it under 30 lbs.

I ended up with a singular Puffin Frame with a Bluto Fork running on Sun's Mulefuts, Hope Fatsno upfront and Salsa 3 rear hub.

Singular frames use an EBB and for the Puffin they made a nice 100 mm EBB. I am used to EBB with my other bike (SC Chameleon). This one set up SS very easy. The chain stay is on the short side with 435 mm when the EBB is in the center, 428 at its shortest, and 442 at its longest. The only issue with the Singular Frame - is weight. I got a large and it was 6 lbs. Meh.  Also this is 170 mm frame. This means a couple things, 100 mm rims probably weren't going to happen, but the good news is that the Q-factor is 20 mm less. I know this because I learned that not all 100 mm BB and cranks are created equal. For the Raceface cranks there you need to specify 170 or 190 for the crank spindle. The BB is the same but the crank spindle is longer for the 190, and there are spacer's to fill out the width. The extra width and extra Q-factor are needed so the cranks clear the chain stay.

The 170 drove wheel choice. I went with the Sun's. They are 80 mm, light at 810 grams and they set up tubeless easy-peasy. I almost went with the Haro Tundras. The Tundra's can be had for around $80 a rim and weigh in around 860ish. The Sun's were $130 a rim.  I had the wheels built by Universal. For the bluto is 150x15 TA. For custom wheels at Universal that mean Hope, Salsa, or I9. The Hope's and the Salsa were the same price. The I9's were $(I don't need hubs this nice). I'm a hope fan, so I chose those. Wanted to go Hope on the rear too, but the Salsa Muk 3 hub was $100 vs. the hopes $300. I got the wheels for about $600. I thought about the Nexties. They are very cool. I figured they they are about 200 grams per wheel lighter, and would require less tape and sealant. Call it 600 gram saving, but from what I found they are about $320 a rim.

I shod the wheels with Vee Snowshoe "4.7". The skinny on these "fat" tires is that they are 4.1 to 4.2 on 80 mm rims. Larger than a Nate 3.8, but not a Bud or a Lou. But they're also light at 1260 grams each, and cheap - $100 each now, but they were $91 earlier in the year. Don't confuse the Snowshoe with the Snowshoe XL. They are two different tires. The XL is newer and trying to make up for the marketing sins of the original. I am going to give them a whirl before I try anything else. They are larger than what I rode last year, and anything larger will run about 200 grams more per wheel.

I got the 120 mm bluto - figured I can always shorten it up. The AC is tall (513?). It puts the Puffin at I guessing 68 degree HA. So far it feels good. Just a little tall in the head tube height, and BB.

In the end I spent more than I wanted. Swapping in different parts, I ended up with 29.5 lbs w/o pedals. 300g for Egg beaters nudges me over 30. I am running BB7's so I could swap out for some XTs and put a lot of Carbon Fiber on the bike and maybe get to 28.

Other frames I looked at: On-one Fatty $500 with shipping (it was $300 in October! Doh!), RSD Mayor also around $500. Matter Benefat -    Fatboy. The guys at Pedal and Spoke quoted me a good price (I don't remember the exact number) to put a bluto on one (not the pro), Trek Farley ( almost bought one at the iceman expo), and the Salsa Mukluk. Both the 2014 and 2013 can run a bluto.

Now if only the trails will open up.   

Sounds like a fun build.  One thing you might want to check is the Salsa hub.  I had a problem with my Mukluk (and have heard of other having the same issue) that the grease they put in the hub from the factory was too heavy and actually froze up on me.  Actually prevented the pawls from engaging as they wouldn't swing!  This made for one EXTREMELY crappy ride in 7 degree weather and a pissed-off me.  I pulled the hub apart, wiped the grease out, and replaced it with a couple dabs of lighter grease (Slick Honey), and never again had a problem.  Salsa may have addressed the issue by now, but should you have this problem, there's your solution.

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