Mech disc vs hydro disc brakes

[Jewalicious]

I spent the late 90s running a R/S mechanical disc and in 2002 with Hayes hydros that are still on my HT today - and work.  testament to mechanicals proving the concept and hydro brakes being able to last (albeit not that much use during all 9 years).  My 2011 bike had Avid J3s that modulated well when new, but became a small maintenance nuisance as Im sure they were not broken in well as they had all the classic symptoms.   Replacing pads and rotors for a J3 set is throwing excess money for little in return, so I just upgraded to XOs and I have to tell ya - modulation and adjustability up the ying-yang.  And I got my Blue fix.   But the price point begins to rise - I shopped around and got a great deal at H&R when they put them on sale.  You cannot beat the extreme low price you can find mechanicals like BB7s for.  I think it comes down to largely how much you want to spend (and in some cases how much you weigh and what terrain you ride down).  You CAN get a good set of mass produced, new-in-pkg hydros for $300.
(PS i still shove the orange pad spacers in my front caliper when I put the car up on the rack)   

[dabears51]

What do you mean by "how much you weigh?"  Example:  I weigh 230ish on a good day.  Will Hydros brake better for me than bb7s?

[j.les]

Some of my drunken random thoughts on brakes-

- I have ridden most brakes out there with the exception of Hopes, Formulas and Maguras

- Mechanicals are low maintenance. I've talked to locals in Moab and this is what many of them run. They claim losing fluid/tearing a hydro line is the worst thing on a 20+ DH trip in the middle of a desert. They just carry an extra cable in the hydration pack. Avid mechs are solid.

- I love my Shimano Saints and XTR's. The levers feel the best out of all brakes I've tried. They are easy to bleed and will most likely outlast all others. Great stopping power, love these brakes. I've ridden 2012 XTR's on a demo bike and wast blown away by 1 finger braking. Can't go wrong with XTs or SLX either.

- Avids are great brakes til they get a bit old. Seems to me they just don't have the precision manufacturing as Shimano, but that's my opinion.

- I can't really praise Hayes, but I have a rear brake on my DJ bike that is from 2001. I have changed the pads once, and never bled it. On the flipside I have 5 other Hayes brakes that don't work anymore.

YMMV

[Jewalicious]

What do you mean by "how much you weigh?"  Example:  I weigh 230ish on a good day.  Will Hydros brake better for me than bb7s?

I DO believe a system that allows precision pad engagement (and release), consistant pad pressure and maximum brake force (tire just barely moving) will allow more rider control going thru 74 unique turns, down hills and across challenging rock gardens that make up a typical trail.

I have seen my average speed at Palos go from (2011 avg: 5.49  to 2012 avg: 6.21)  so I am riding 0.72 mph "faster"...not that I notice but the data supports it.  one reason why?  b/c the J3s I would grab and hope they would consistantly slow, with the XOs its more like I hope I didnt brake too early because they slow immediately, everytime and always have the same feel.

My braking goals for 2012 are to master "no finger braking" (dont brake when I think I need to brake)  and also to practice more modulated braking as to not scrub as much speed off.

Regardless of preference or price -- speed doesent kill, not being able to stop does.....whatever brakes we have, they should be in the best working order everytime we ride.

[Kenbenzo]

What do you mean by "how much you weigh?"  Example:  I weigh 230ish on a good day.  Will Hydros brake better for me than bb7s?

Im "ish" as well.

[UrgentUnguent]

Im "ish" as well.

245-ish, add 100oz H2O, tool kit, first aid kit, etc. BB7s bring it all to a stop!

[gearhead313]

If you cant modulate cable discs.........then you suck at braking and deserve to waste 3x the money on fancy hydros.

I run bb5/7's, pad change every 2 seasons at the moment.  I rarely use brakes hard unless your in an "OH SH!T" moment and have to kung-fu grip those bitches..  I'll run mechs unless i start gravity again (moving the F out of illinois) and then, I'll go Stroker Aces.

[SubieScott77]

My '12 Cannondale Trail SL 29'ER 4 with the Helix 3 hydraulic disc brakes works amazing. I took the bike out to Kettle Moraine for the first time, two days ago. Between the Orange and Green trails (minimum of moderate terrain difficulty), I had no problems what so ever. When the breaks were applied, speed dropped in a controlled manner. I can't speak for mechanical discs, however, the hydraulics are very responsive and sensitive. Whether you're jamming on them in an instant or slightly adding pressure during a descent, they hold strong. Didn't notice any slippage at all. Although, if you're too hard on them in loose terrain, you're wheels will definitely lock up. Anywho, if you've got the extra money...go for hydraulics. It's my first post, hope this contributed somewhat to the topic. Take care!

[Kenbenzo]

I wanted to go bb7 but found a used set of Juicy 7's for 50.00 and jumped on them. They appear in good shape. The rear works well but makes some grinding/shreiking as I stop. The front is just spongy and wont bring me all the way stopped. Does this sound like pad/bleed issues? I dont have a bleed kit either. What would you do?

[goneil]

I wanted to go bb7 but found a used set of Juicy 7's for 50.00 and jumped on them. They appear in good shape. The rear works well but makes some grinding/shreiking as I stop. The front is just spongy and wont bring me all the way stopped. Does this sound like pad/bleed issues? I dont have a bleed kit either. What would you do?

Ken,

I would inspect the pads first. They pop out pretty easy without any tools. Remove the wheel and pull them out, just be sure not to lose the springy metal clip that sits between the two pads. If the pads are worn through and the grinding you're hearing is metal-on-metal, then your rotor is probably trashed. Some brakes just have a tendency to squeal, however, and there isn't much you can do (it's a known issue with some 7's). You can try swapping the front with the rear pads and see if it's just the pads. Pads are pretty cheap, it's probably a good idea to just replace them.

As for the spongyness on the front, I would make sure the levers are adjusted properly before bleeding. Turn the pad contact knob all the way in, and then adjust the little screw hiding behind the lever. It takes a very small allen wrench (I forget the exact size). You might have to remove the brakes from the bars to get at it. If you can't get it adjusted to where you can get a firm brake out of it, then it's time to bleed. Bleeding can be a bit of a pain, plenty of people here should have a kit you can borrow. 

[Jewalicious]

Im pretty sure I saw a low price for 2011 Mechanical BB 7s on pricepoint website this week.  50-70 bucks a side depending on size and if you like Grey.

http://www.pricepoint.com/detail.htm?stylepkey=18749

[SmilingBob]

For the brake squeal/grinding, I would do as suggested first, check the pads. If the pads are good the second thing I would try would be realigning the brakes. This is quite easy, loosen the 2 screws holding the calipers to the bike and manually wiggle the caliper, this should be done just to make sure there is not dust or anything holding the caliper in place. Nest squeeze the corresponding brake lever, this centers the caliper. While holding the brake lever tighten the two screws on the caliper. Now check to see of the brake is still making noise. If the brake still makes noise there is one more simple thing to try, change the pads and try organics. If none of this works the fix becomes more complicated as some part of the caliper - disc setup is out of align.

[Kenbenzo]

All great tips. Ill do it this weekend. Thanks!